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Swiftech H20-120 Compact Water-Cooling Kit

Now, you have to connect the rubber tubes onto the hose barbs.

That’s the wrong way to do it, notice the kinked tube on the right barb. You
should measure the length of tubes required, cut off the excess, and push the
spiral wrap all the way down so that you don’t encounter any kinks.

I tested it in a case-less environment, so I placed the radiator on top of my
Power Supply. Just a note that this can be a easy configuration for those into
testing out different hardware in an open environment, since you just need to
un-mount the water-block and switch in a new Motherboard, mount back the
waterblock and you’re ready to roll again.

Now, there is actually an outlet and inlet barb for the radiator and I had connected the outlet of the pump to the outlet of the radiator. This does not affect performance, but it means that the jet from the pump is creating big turbulences underneath the fill-port since its shooting straight up. When you open the fill-cap you may see a lot of bubbles there, whereas if you install it the other way around, the water in the fill-port area will be nice and quiet. Swiftech will be labeling the barbs in retail packages.

As said previously, the water-filling is done via the radiator, with a button
cap on-top of it. You just need to uncap it with a screw-driver, and it’s
leak-free due to the rubber O-Ring on the cap. You should not take too long nor
require too much water to fill up the system with coolant and water mixture
since it is a rather small loop. I did not use a wire to short out my power
supply so that the pump would start and fill up the loop with water. Instead, I
just unplugged the +12v 8-pin power connector to my motherboard so that no
voltage gets fed to my processor and it does not get hot, while the motherboard
and the power supply ran, together with the pump housed within the Apogee Drive.
You can do that if you’re lazy like me.

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